Photo: PK Read

We drove up Haleakalā from the coast of Maui, heading up the 3000 m (10,000 ft) volcano long before dawn. We arrived at the top, and although the weather at sea level was balmy, the temperature at the mountaintop was frigid. The wind was savage.

We watched the winter stars move above in the indigo sky, the sea and coastlines invisible below. We saw the endless ridges of clouds slowly illuminate across the expanse of the Pacific Ocean. At dawn, a young man sang in Hawaiian, arms outstretched, from the crest of Haleakalā, the “house of the sun.”

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